We recently said farewell to our beetle, Pumpkin. Rally car, tow car, commuter, shopping trolley, motocross jump survivor and sadly missed :-(
Sold to make way for something faster.
Sold to make way for something faster.
Tuesday, November 13, 2012
Wednesday, July 18, 2012
Saturday, June 2, 2012
Friday, June 1, 2012
Distraction
This is the (primary) reason why nothing has happened with the oval for sometime.
I have been busy spending my evenings and weekends building a garage, and to celebrate the building reaching lock-up I put some of our images into a little video.
Enjoy!
I have been busy spending my evenings and weekends building a garage, and to celebrate the building reaching lock-up I put some of our images into a little video.
Enjoy!
Tuesday, April 10, 2012
As it sits
My (welding) trigger finger is itchy...
The oval has been sitting idle (or more specifically, progress has) since we have moved house and been busy going from this:
To this:
So, our new garage is getting closer to completion. Once the carpentry has stopped, the metal work can start again.
The oval has been sitting idle (or more specifically, progress has) since we have moved house and been busy going from this:
To this:
So, our new garage is getting closer to completion. Once the carpentry has stopped, the metal work can start again.
Monday, October 10, 2011
Electrolysis
The plan all along was to separate each & every panel at the factory spot welds. As such, electrolysis seemed like something we should at least try.
Lot's of information regarding this method of rust removal is available online. A few things to keep in mind:
- It's slow... To really get the optimum results you need to leave any panel cooking for around 3 days, it will be visibly rust free after 2 days, but cutting in will still show the odd trace. Larger panels, remove & clean every 48 hrs and cook for 4-5 days.
- Single skins ONLY! This is paramount. You can not have seams or double skin panels as anywhere steel skins join will corrode after the process. I did some experimenting with different corrosion prevention methods (oiling, high pressure air-brush application, dipping, etc), but was not happy with the results.
So that is why you will see the panels separated into individual skins. Above is the rear window section (inner) in etch primer following the electrolysis treatment.
Below is the rear vent section from the oval. The hinge mounts were from the '58; the bare metalling of these mounts included using a small drill bit that had the tip broken off (I save all broken drill bits), this enabled me to mill the hard to reach spots very effectively.
Lot's of information regarding this method of rust removal is available online. A few things to keep in mind:
- It's slow... To really get the optimum results you need to leave any panel cooking for around 3 days, it will be visibly rust free after 2 days, but cutting in will still show the odd trace. Larger panels, remove & clean every 48 hrs and cook for 4-5 days.
- Single skins ONLY! This is paramount. You can not have seams or double skin panels as anywhere steel skins join will corrode after the process. I did some experimenting with different corrosion prevention methods (oiling, high pressure air-brush application, dipping, etc), but was not happy with the results.
So that is why you will see the panels separated into individual skins. Above is the rear window section (inner) in etch primer following the electrolysis treatment.
Below is the rear vent section from the oval. The hinge mounts were from the '58; the bare metalling of these mounts included using a small drill bit that had the tip broken off (I save all broken drill bits), this enabled me to mill the hard to reach spots very effectively.
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